The beach is miles long and right at the end of the sweep near the camels is the cheesily named Ocean Vagabond which is a great Bar/Cafe with deckchairs, sun loungers and table football, its really worth the long walk, the food is lovely some of the best in Essaoiura, the chocolate tart and vanilla custard are heavenly.
Down by the harbour, if it all gets a bit too much you can always put a box on your head.
It seems as if everyone in Essaouira is a skilled with their hands, the shops are full of vibrant woven shawls and rugs, carved bowls and the most beautiful silver jewellery and wooden carvings. The prices are much cheaper than in Marrakech and the people aren't pushy, just friendly and they can't do enough for you. Be warned never accept the first price offered and always enjoy the bartering, it's part of the holiday.
Here is Patisserie Dris which is on the main square. The place is a cakey revelation where everything is fresh, sweet and exotic. You can buy breakfast for about 15 dirhams which is a little over a pound! you will get a pain au chocolat, croissant, freshly squeezed orange juice and milky coffee. If you fancy any of the other pastries just go up to the counter and point, dont forget your best French manners, they'll go a long way.